Kyoto Before Seven

Kyoto has a different city hidden inside it, and it only appears before seven in the morning.

I set an alarm for 5:15 every day for a week. By 5:45 I was walking up Sannenzaka in the blue light, with only street sweepers and a few delivery vans for company.

Yasaka pagoda

The view of the pagoda from the top of the lane is the most photographed corner in Kyoto. At noon you can’t see the street for people. At dawn it’s empty, and the lanterns are still lit.

Shopkeepers’ hour

Between six and seven the shutters start going up. Someone sweeps the step, someone waters a pot of maples, someone sets out a tray of sweets. It’s the most ordinary part of the day, and the one I remember best.

A note on photographing

This is a neighbourhood, not a set. I didn’t photograph people without asking, and I kept off doorsteps. Higashiyama’s residents put up with a great deal; the least we can do is let them open their shops in peace.