Guides · Istanbul
Getting Around Istanbul by Ferry
The cheapest Bosphorus cruise is the commuter ferry. Routes, tickets and the best seats, from someone who rode them daily.
Journal
Every article I’ve published, newest first. Filter by category — Guides, Trip Reports, Photo Essays — or by destination.
Photo Essays · Kyoto
Kyoto Before Seven
Higashiyama’s lanes in the hour after dawn, when the city belongs to shopkeepers and street sweepers.
Trip Reports · Northern Vietnam
Ten Days in Northern Vietnam
Hanoi’s mornings, a night on Ha Long Bay and cycling Ninh Binh’s rice fields — ten days, one backpack, honest notes.
Guides · Lisbon
48 Hours in Lisbon, Slowly
Two unhurried days in Lisbon: tram 28 before the crowds, Alfama on foot, and the viewpoints worth the climb.